The Differences Between Royal and Commoner Clothing in Imperial China

Clothing in Imperial China was not just a matter of personal style or comfort; it was a powerful tool for expressing one’s social status, political power, and relationship with the divine. From the robes of the emperor to the garments worn by commoners, every piece of clothing was meticulously crafted to signify rank, importance, and the role of the wearer within the larger social and political hierarchy. This article will explore the significant differences between royal and commoner clothing in Imperial China, focusing on their symbolic meanings, materials, and the way they reflected the rigid social structure of the time.

1. The Social Hierarchy and Its Impact on Clothing

In Imperial China, society was deeply hierarchical, with a strict division between the classes. At the top was the emperor and his family, followed by officials, scholars, artisans, merchants, and finally, peasants. The clothing worn by individuals in each of these classes was designed to reflect their social status, with the emperor and members of the royal family enjoying the highest privileges in terms of attire.

1.1 Clothing as a Symbol of Rank

The concept of rank was central to Chinese society, and clothing was one of the most visible ways to display one’s position. For example, the emperor’s clothing was a direct reflection of his divine right to rule, while the clothing of a commoner indicated their humble position within the social order. While commoners wore clothing made from simple materials, royal attire was crafted from luxurious fabrics and adorned with symbolic motifs.

1.2 The Influence of Confucianism

Confucianism played a significant role in shaping the social structure of Imperial China, and its influence extended to the rules regarding clothing. The Confucian ideal of ritual propriety (known as li) dictated that everyone, regardless of their social status, had a specific role to play, and their clothing should reflect this role. The emperor, as the Son of Heaven, was seen as the link between the celestial and earthly realms, and his attire was designed to reflect this divine authority.

On the other hand, commoners were expected to dress in a modest and unadorned manner, in keeping with their role in society. The differences between royal and commoner clothing were thus not only a matter of luxury but also an expression of the moral and social order.

2. Royal Clothing: Luxurious Fabrics and Symbolism

Royal clothing in Imperial China was characterized by the use of luxurious materials, elaborate designs, and powerful symbols that underscored the emperor’s divine status and authority. Unlike the simple clothing of commoners, royal garments were intended to be awe-inspiring, signaling the emperor’s supremacy and his connection to the heavens.

2.1 Materials Used in Royal Clothing

One of the most noticeable differences between royal and commoner clothing was the quality and type of fabric used. The emperor and the royal family had access to finely woven silks, brocades, and velvets, while commoners typically wore garments made from coarse hemp or cotton. The use of silk was symbolic of the emperor’s power, as silk was an expensive and labor-intensive fabric to produce, making it a luxury that only the highest classes could afford.

Gold thread, jade, and precious stones were often incorporated into royal clothing, either through embroidery or as adornments. These materials signified wealth, power, and the connection to the divine. The robes of the emperor, known as longpao or dragon robes, were often embroidered with dragons, phoenixes, clouds, and waves, each of which had its own symbolic meaning tied to the emperor’s role as the ruler of both the earthly and celestial realms.

2.2 The Emperor’s Robes: A Symbol of Divine Rule

The emperor’s robe was not merely a piece of clothing—it was a symbol of his divine right to rule. The dragon robe, or longpao, was designed with specific motifs and colors that underscored the emperor’s cosmic authority. The five-clawed dragon, for instance, symbolized the emperor’s connection to heaven and his supreme control over the empire. The colors of the emperor’s robes were also significant, with yellow being reserved for the emperor and symbolizing his role as the center of the world.

The emperor’s clothing also included accessories such as jade ornaments, which were believed to have protective properties, and golden crowns and headdresses, which conveyed his imperial power. The emperor’s attire was designed to create an imposing and majestic figure, reinforcing his status as the Son of Heaven.

3. Commoner Clothing: Simple and Practical

In stark contrast to the luxurious clothing worn by the emperor and the royal family, commoner clothing was characterized by its simplicity, modesty, and practicality. Commoners wore garments made from basic materials such as hemp, cotton, or wool, which were more affordable and durable for daily use. While these garments were functional, they lacked the intricate embroidery and precious materials found in royal attire.

3.1 Materials Used in Commoner Clothing

The fabrics used by commoners were typically rougher and less decorative than those worn by the upper classes. Hemp was one of the most common materials, especially in rural areas, due to its availability and durability. Commoners also wore cotton garments, although these were more commonly seen in the later periods of Imperial China, after cotton became more widely cultivated. The quality of fabric varied according to a person’s wealth and status, but even the richest commoners could not afford the luxurious silks and brocades reserved for the emperor.

Commoner clothing was designed for practicality rather than display. The garments were often loose-fitting to allow ease of movement, reflecting the physical labor that most commoners were engaged in. Colors were more subdued compared to the bold, vibrant hues seen in royal attire. Dark colors such as brown, grey, and black were common, reflecting the modesty and humble nature of commoners.

3.2 Clothing for Different Social Classes

Commoners in different social strata wore different types of clothing, depending on their role in society. Peasants, for example, wore simple robes that were functional and inexpensive, while artisans and merchants might have slightly more elaborate clothing to reflect their higher status within the commoner class. However, even these garments were far less opulent than the emperor’s royal attire.

For men, robes were typically long, loose-fitting garments with wide sleeves, while women wore dresses with wide sleeves that were also modest in design. Footwear for commoners consisted of simple cloth shoes or sandals, contrasting with the intricate shoes worn by the emperor and his family, which were made of luxurious materials and adorned with symbols of imperial power.

4. The Differences in Symbolism Between Royal and Commoner Clothing

One of the most striking differences between royal and commoner clothing was the level of symbolism embedded in the garments. While commoner clothing was often devoid of symbolic motifs, royal clothing was rich in symbolism, with every element chosen to represent specific aspects of the emperor’s authority, the cosmos, and the natural world.

4.1 Royal Symbols and Motifs

As previously mentioned, royal clothing often featured dragons, phoenixes, clouds, waves, and flames, each with a specific meaning. These symbols were not merely decorative; they were designed to convey the emperor’s connection to the divine and his control over the natural and spiritual realms.

For example, the dragon symbolized imperial power, strength, and divine authority, while the phoenix symbolized harmony, peace, and the empress’s role in the empire. Clouds and waves were representations of the emperor’s control over the heavens and the seas. These symbols were intricately woven or embroidered into the robes, making each garment a piece of living history and divine authority.

4.2 Commoner Clothing: Simplicity and Practicality

In contrast, commoner clothing was simple, with few, if any, symbolic motifs. The lack of symbolism in commoner clothing reflected the societal belief that commoners were not part of the divine order in the same way that the emperor was. Their clothing was designed for functionality and modesty, rather than as a symbol of divine connection or power.

5. Conclusion: Clothing as a Reflection of Status

The differences between royal and commoner clothing in Imperial China were not merely a matter of personal taste or fashion—they were a reflection of the deep social and political divisions that defined Chinese society. Royal clothing was rich with symbolism and made from luxurious materials, serving as a powerful tool for communicating the emperor’s authority and divine right to rule. In contrast, commoner clothing was simple, practical, and functional, reflecting the humble role of the commoner in the social hierarchy.

Through their clothing, both the emperor and commoners were able to express their status, identity, and connection to the larger social and cosmic order. The emperor’s robes, with their intricate designs and royal symbols, conveyed his supreme authority, while commoners’ garments spoke to their place within the rigid structure of Chinese society.